the picturesque area of the street of the old citadel, now Jalan Veteran, home to some great secrets. For connoisseurs of Jakarta Dapur Babah Elite Jalan Veteran, near Monas, is a haven of well kept a little away from the bustle of the new districts of the city.
'Babah' itself is a term that has happened around the colonial era in Jakarta to describe the fusion of East and West; when Dutch influenced Javanese women married Chinese settlers. The half-breed mixture of both cultures gave rise to a new mixture of rituals and spices in the kitchen. Javanese women were familiar with many spices originating in Indonesia; with the help of the Chinese heritage incoming, new flavors were introduced, creating a mix that we call now Peranakan kitchen. Therefore, the term "Dapur Babah" (Babah Kitchen), where food is derived from Babah 'all things.
As I entered the restaurant, greeted by friendly staff, other Jakarta meets the eye. Dapur Babah owner and its sister institutions Tugu Group, Anhar Setjadibrata, is a longtime Indonesian antiques collector. So much so that every room in Dapur Babah and the rest of the restaurants Tugu group - Lara Djonggrang, Samara and Shanghai Blue 1920 - are designed to tell a story using specific antique items acquired over the years. The garden area, for example, is a representation of the original kitchen Babah early 20th century; pots and kettles displayed here are original pieces, the statue Goddess Protector is typical of a kitchen Babah, as a deity figure who ensures the quality of its cuisine and chefs. Dapur Babah clearly chose each item in the restaurant with careful consideration.
Dapur Babah adopts the philosophy of "Bringing art, soul and romance of Indonesia" in its design. And it is quite true; romance plays a big role in creating the atmosphere Dapur Babah with his signature soft lighting, comfortable cabins and the use of photographs of Babah ladies back in the day. The place is divided into several rooms; Kwan Im room, where large party guests can have a private meeting, Megawati room, Tao bar, Garden area, the VOC room, and Angela room. The garden area is the only non-smoking section of the restaurant because it is an outdoor terrace.
Dapur Babah is proud to have the art, the soul and not only displayed inside romance, but the food as well. The signing of Dapur Babah Peranakan cuisine has roots in Javanese spices, rich flavors of the Netherlands, and the sweet and spicy Chinese seasoning. The three languages have been incorporated into the menu. As I was a first timer, I asked their specialty dish and drink. Rosiany Chandra, PR for the Tugu Group recommended Nasi Tjampoer Babah with delight. But not before the first order a drink; I went with the Mahadeva Garudasana and my brother went with the Sleeping Buddha. Mahadeva was very refreshing; decoction of tea, muddled mint leaves, strawberry and palm sugar. The Sleeping Buddha was a delicious combination of soursop, milk and ice cream to vanilla. A little too heavy for me, especially at dinner, it was yet surprisingly fresh.
After drinks, appetizers were Petis Tahoe Goreng, fried tofu with sweet shrimp paste as dip, Maccaroni and Schottel Bitterbaletjes. Shrimp paste used in Tahoe Goreng Petis was sweet and savory at the same time, well paired with fried tofu. Bitterbaletjes are apple croquettes in round earth and the meat was very rich, but after eating with yellow carrot and cucumber pickle garnish, it was even tastier. But the winner of appetizers, I must say, is the Maccaroni Schottel. It is simple mac and cheese "with a Dutch touch, which is usually controlled by the intensive use of cheese still Dapur Babah used just the right amount that I could taste the texture of macaroni and ham, without soaked in the cheese. Quite the comfort food!
Then came the signature dish, Nasi Tjampoer Babah. We also had Petjel Pintjoek, mixed vegetables steamed with peanut sauce and rice in a banana leaf and Ikan Goreng Moelet Garing Boembon - fried fish that has been marinated in spices and coconut flakes. Even the sound of it is mouth-watering. And yes, they were great! Nasi Tjampoer Babah consists of rice, supplemented by nine different side Javanese dishes; from shrimp marinated beef skewers and fried tempeh. Nasi Tjampoer generally use white rice, but Dapur Babah is infused with Pandan leaves; making green and sumptuous rice aroma. Such a treat!
Dapur Babah is pleased to offer a dining experience where all your senses can be entertained. They even offer a Grand selamatan Tafel in which the traditional Nasi tumpeng - a rice cone-shaped mountain and side dishes, usually served at parties and festivals - is transformed into a ceremonial procession where staff Dapur Babah carry an expanded version of this dish in a palanquin and enter the room with a bang. It is one of the experiments the most interesting restaurants, I guess.
We finished the night with the famous Es Tjampoer Babah; crushed ice with young coconut, tropical fruit, coconut milk and selasih unusual but delicious seeds. Something sweet - but not too sweet - and exotic to finish the night with
.Dapur Babah has a relaxed environment and dining casual attire is acceptable. It's quite a place if you are looking for a unique restaurant with excellent Peranakan cuisine. No doubt the approach of Dapur Babah is "food with a history."
Dapur Babah Elite
Jl. Veteran 1 / 18-19, Central Jakarta
(021) 7060 2256 or (021) 385 5653
dapurbabah@tuguhotels.com