Our epicure expert continues a sting operation to bring you the truth about the culinary scene in Jakarta. No spoon is left to chance in the quest for revisions honest, balanced, long-time favorite with hottest new restaurants in town.
This month, the exotic inexorably E & O.
What is a name? What we call a restaurant should, by another name, as good taste. What, then, does the name of globetrotting prodigy Will Meyrick do for his gaff Jakarta, E & O? Regular readers know that I recently reviewed another joints Jakarta Union Group, Loewy, and what came about as well as Juliet. Time to see if their collaboration with the Food Street chef lives up to the enduring popularity of its efforts Bali (mamasan and Sarong).
about names, "Eastern and Oriental" is that of a hotel in Penang established in the 1880s and we are instantly transported to the golden age of travel - a time when Christmas Coward was not a hipster cocktail name but an artist on a tropical holiday. I think the original E & O had probably comfier chairs that restaurant. But anyway, it eventually became part of a chain in which sisters included the legendary Raffles Hotel in Singapore. So far, so that Southeast Asia.
This is where Meyrick comes in. A wee Scottish scoundrel, he gave birth in some kitchens of London before jumping off on a ride through the world, munching his way through Indochina. He settled for a spell in Sydney where he found favor with some mainly Thai restaurants before deciding on a more permanent basis in Indonesia. Menu E & O went through some forms since its opening in 2013 :. the site now proclaims Thai-Vietnamese, but there is more than that
An important dish to get right if you are Thai som tum . This green mango salad (Rp.50,000) should be sour, spicy, salty and sweet - the balance of these elements is in Thai (and Vietnamese) food. I could have done with a bit more spice, but it was not a major problem. The mango was suitably soft, and each key ingredient was present, from peanuts to dried shrimp.
The Lamb Massaman Curry (Rp.180,000) was a triumph. This is a classic Thai lesser known South generally favored by Muslim communities, with more easily found in subcontinental dishes flavors: cinnamon, tamarind and cardamom in this release. The lamb shanks were large and beautifully braised, lovingly enveloped by the pumpkin compote-down in the rich and robust sauce. I could have eaten it for days :. Something fun, and easily one of the best curries I've had in Jakarta
To go with this, a side order of roti canai (Rp.45,000) must be encouraged. This was perhaps a bit undercooked, but the flakiness was good and you can not beat him to mop the Massaman sauce.
For our other main We Lost the Thai-Vietnamese Balinese gun Pepes (Rp.150,000), a company dense barramundi marinated and cooked fillet steamed in banana leaves . You can choose the appropriate bumbu in the food candlenut daun , lemongrass in matah sambal , etc. - again, we could have faced a little more spice (and som tum with are supposed to be spicy menu choices) but the flavors were lively on the palate. Do this with the simple jasmine rice (Rp.15,000).
Peanut Butter Ice Cream Sugar Palm (Rp.50,000) was like a sexed-up, adult size cup Reese: Chocolate garni and bee nest house pieces it was a bad size more joy
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Shame-eat lot and torture you in the gym later. The Mocha Cappuccino ganache (Rp.65,000) also came with a large honeycomb slab; cream ice cream coconut granita topped with coffee was the best bit.
to go with your meal at E & O, it surely got to be a selection of their very well stocked bar. They do some of the best cocktails in town: creative and unusual, not just for the sake of it, but because it actually tastes good. Go classic with a Daquiri Hemingway, or "Signature" with lychee Lady Papillon. Wine-wise, you need off-dry with spice - perhaps a Trimbach Riesling. I can not however, for the life of me, understand the beer menu. Heineken and Erdinger, really? pretty decent beer - but is this the best they can do in a restaurant is the theme? Where is the Singha or Bia Ha Noi? Even Bintang would have been welcome.
Although not quite at Ramsay-esque levels of celeb-chefdom clearly Meyrick is not able to cook here every day (he gallivanting to do, you understand). But the day we visited, the kitchen mainly driven off. The service is a bit better than the usual brand of a little unnecessary, and the food is great value for money. In all? Like to see the name of Meyrick is not just there as a crowd-magnet, but it actually does match the best option for high-end Thai and South pan-Asian in the city.
