Deep in darker FBS, like its namesake, a restaurant group develops in the closet of the city, sprouting offshoots of his particular brand of culinary creativity. Annali Hayward visited Potato Head to taste their "farm to table supply: can locally sourced, environmentally and socially conscious fare to be done in the Big Durian? And more importantly, is it good?
Say 'Potato' to a group of expatriates in Indonesia and the answers fall into two camps. There are those who think that you've lost your marbles and began to babble on classic toys. Leave them in their ignorant bliss, and join the other tribe. Those who know you are referring to one of the hottest - but curiously named - catering groups in the archipelago
The Potato 'Family', as they like to be known, has five schools and counting. Potato Head was the first, followed by Garage Potato Head (the corner of the club), and Potato Head Beach Club famous in Bali. Three Buns, a casual fast food, opened in Senopati earlier this year, and there is Folk Potato Head in Singapore. Many projects are in the works - No couch potatoes in this family
Chef Noguchi
Chief Haruhisa Noguchi of Japan joined Potato Head in 2013, four years after its opening. With him, he has a passion for food locally and in accordance with the original ethics, after working briefly under Jean-Georges Vongerichten, an initiator of the movement in New York. The idea is to use as many local ingredients as possible, making things in-house and procurement from suppliers, accountable and sustainable. Noguchi-san estimated 75 percent of the card fits that description. It is hard work - he fights the same scope, quality and logistical difficulties that all leaders in Jakarta, with the added challenge of using as many organic non-GMO products as it can. All this even before cooking anything.
There was a delight, therefore, to find the entrees were the dream of a vegetarian - and to a committed carnivore like me; Just as well. Chargrilled vegetable salad (Rp.95,000) was a beautiful generosity of colorful vegetables for babies, cooked to perfection, finished on the grill and soaked in a tangy tamarind dressing 'Balinese'. Zucchini and beets were particularly soft, and it was refreshing to find a good salad which was also moreish.
goat cheese salad Rosalie (Rp.110,000) was a smaller part with three crostini on top of an unusual salad: mesclun decorated with homemade granola, carom and a chargrilled lemon dressing. It crossed my mind that I could love more than three bites cheesy goodness, but strangely enough this salad, but it looks strange on paper, tasted so good I forgot all that. Starfruit contrast very well with cheese and dried fruit honey, and as the whole dish is also very nutritious.
The icing on the cake is that the cheese is made in Bintaro, West Java with goat's milk -. And it would be all crazy cheese devil into thinking it was the most beautiful France
Knocking spots off the salad in the issues of nutrition was the main course pasta, Kale and tomato Spaghetti (Rp.120,000). Kale, most beloved hippie, yoga-pants-wearing vegetables can be vile in the wrong hands. Noguchi-san is a light touch - it was not overcooked (blech) or undercooked (worst), and crucially it perfectly complemented the ricotta cheese and homemade tomato sauce with garlic. It was another flat where no meat is inconsequential. The coronation was the hint of hot pepper flakes to the sauce. Subtle, but if necessary
For meat networks, look no further than Pan-Fried Duck breast (Rp.260,000) Banten. Here, it became clear that not only is this a, well constructed menu carefully examined, but a kitchen that can remove. The meat was tender and the skin was carefully marked, smeared with sesame seeds and chili flakes, giving this classic French welcome an Asian touch. were below the red withered leaves, grilled vegetables, and sauce sweet red wine. Again, this does not sound like it should work, but it did.
To demonstrate successfully their offer of weekend, Noguchi-san sent a brunch dish: Greek rice milk yogurt sauce with mango-passion fruit, topped with cashews local. On the side were interesting superfoods: cardamom- and star anise, spicy red quinoa, water and coconut chia seeds. It was healthiness on a plate, and a great alternative to waffles on a Saturday.
Ganache Chocolate, Dessert
For dessert, the chocolate ganache decadent (Rp.95,000) uses the best cocoa in Tabanan, Bali. It was great to see the kitchen being brave with the bitterness of the chocolate, allowing it to highlight really the quality of the source. Sweetness came through ice cream served with vanilla on top.
chief mixologist Julian hit a 'Sweet Merah', a brilliant, unusual cocktail beet Balinese arak and triple sec - it was refreshing and inventive, and probably more than that creativity out bars of potato in the future. Wines by the glass are not bad, and the coffee is very good.
Potato Head already has a fan base among the FBS office crowd, and the new "farm to table" menu appears to be expanding on this point: the whimsical space, industrial-chic was packed with happy diners chowing down. Obviously, they are part of the group who discovered this is legitimate before any "farm to table" Jakarta offers :. Local, responsible, green - but also delicious
Potato Head
G51A Pacific Place Mall, SCBD, Jl Jend.. Sudirman Kav. 52- 53, Jakarta Selatan, Indonesia 12190
62 (0) 21 5797 3322 www.pttfamily.com