Our epicure expert continues a sting operation to bring you the truth about the culinary scene in Jakarta. No spoon is left to chance in the quest for revisions honest, balanced, long-time favorite with hottest new restaurants in town.
This month, temptress Tuscan Gia.
Valentine's Day is looming again, with the inevitability of a hairline congenitally decline. Although all pseudo-journo / blogger in the city flatters the commerciality of the day mulling press releases on special menus 'romantic', I - never anarchist - chose to fight the good fight for those found without Soulmate this year (no comments about my own situation. The spokesman did not disclose). Instead of looking for a place to dinner for two , I went hunting for more fertile ground ... something suitable for those who make themselves a little hunting.
My mind immediately went to Gia. Opened a year ago in an accident that grand office building sophisticated Gia dark interiors could be perfect for an evening of food and flirting. Hoping to start things in the right direction, I took them up on their offer of a aperitivo - a drink before dinner, usually strong and bitter, to whet your appetite. I desperately wanted to get that authentic right idea, but unfortunately it happened after the first of our courses, and thus slightly denied the point. Still, it was a drink. I'm usually a sucker for a Negroni, but was delighted to see his cousin in the menu, Lo Spritz Veneziano (Rp.115,000). Aperol Spritz is a signature aperitif of Venice: Aperol with Prosecco and marinated olive. It was served beautifully, with a fancy, large single ice cube.
As I struggle with the existential crisis that is alcohol deprivation, executive chef Tommaso appeared unexpectedly to advise us on the menu. I give it top marks for that. Not all leaders - in fact, not - the trouble to do so; either because they are not really there, or because they do not value the interaction with the customer. Chef Tommaso had some specials menu out to talk to us. He spoke with passion and sincerity - clearly a kitchen that cooks from the heart
.
Portobello Mushroom
First, in Portobello Fonduta (Rp.125,000) was a grilled Portobello mushroom fleshy with black truffle and parmesan 'fondue' - a rich creamy sauce as well contrasted with the earthiness of the mushroom. Compensate the sauce was a zingy mesclun salad with julienne beets and pumpkin seeds. Beetroot has a little lost, but the seeds have been a nice touch, as was the good aged balsamic vinegar sprinkled on top.
We drank and dined while watching the comings and goings of the beautiful people of Jakarta on the terrace. In the evening, the outdoor area is preferable to the smaller inner bar. It is lit with twinkly lights, buzzing with cigarettes and cocktails. The crowd is a good mix of locals and wealthy expatriates.
Currently, we were distracted by more food.
Pasta is a dish ultimate lovers. Many a first date was suspended in successfully pulp balance - it would have done nicely: Scoglio (Rp.155,000), a seafood linguine with shrimp, mussels and squid in wine white, garlic and chili sauce [
the chili had a good kick, and was also preserved on the side. The pasta was good al dente , but it is true that I expected more generous chunks of seafood, although the mussels were as sweet and fresh as any I have eaten here.
Triumph came in the form of Agnolotti del Plin (Rp.190,000): braised beef ravioli with truffle butter with veal juice and fresh shaved black truffle. I'm usually skeptical of quite so much truffle on a menu, but the only place I can forgive is with pasta - it's a match made in heaven. The ravioli were a beautiful golden color, which chef Tommaso explained later because the egg yolks in homemade pasta. I thought I was upset with truffle sauce, but it was beef that did it: there was so much flavor packed into such small pieces that had been braised with wine and many herbs such as sage really come across the palate. Delicioso .
We shared a secondi piatti Dentice of Al Vapore (Rp.205,000), a snapper fillet steamed with - allegedly - a puttanesca sauce. Sadly though, it was a puttana without high heels. The main ingredients were there: olives, tomatoes, capers, garlic ... but they received such a light touch - probably for fear of overwhelming sweetness to taste, sweet fish like snapper - that they lacked salty pungency of a classic lady sauce -the night.
The desserts were intriguing. Overall, savory dishes are quite traditional - it's saltimbocca and osso buco on the menu; nothing too out-of-the-box on behalf of hipness - and I really like that about Gia. They are not pretending to be new for the sake of it. Except with candy.
There was Burrata pannacotta (Rp.85,000), with the "soil" cinnamon, black pepper and frozen beet berries. The burrata itself was great, and the foam pieces were not bad. But the strange addition of faddy "soil" seemed out of character, and small cubes of jelly seemed to be a case of technology on taste.
Similarly with Crostatina Cioccolato (Rp.95,000). The dough was good, and the dark, creamy chocolate filling was decently flavored, but had a strange granular texture. The caramelized nuts on the summit was a success, but I wondered why we needed the popcorn glazing (again, it seemed to be just for the sake of modernity) and "honey crisp" went a little unnoticed. There was also another "ground" - this time chocolate brownies. What the ground, really? It crumbles simply something that was once a larger room. Maybe I'm too old to be impressed by that? In any case, I would stick to this Tommaso chef does best :. Golden oldies like tiramisu grandmother, cooked with love
Overall, Gia is a great choice for couples and singles-and-mell. The atmosphere is courteously adult, perfect for those looking to see and be seen, but in a less obvious way than Loewy et al . Linger at the bar for a drink, take a look around the room, and diving for some of the best Italian food in Jakarta.
Verdict: Mamma Gia! 3.5 out of 5
Please check
Power :! Rp.1,085,000
Beverages Rp.255,000
Service 10%
. Rp.1,621,400 (. inc tax) for two
GIA Jakarta
instead Sampoerna strategic, South Tower Hall, Jl. Jendral Sudirman No.Kav 45-46, Jakarta
.62 21 5795 3300 www.ismaya.com/gia