Expats around the city include how difficult it is to find a decent western cuisine that is heavily tilted towards local palate (buttermilk fried chicken and waffles with sambal anyone?) or comply with the Instagram crowd where style is heavily favored over substance. We've all been there and done that, and many people I know have given up on finding the perfect union of this kind; a place to park to enjoy not only the drinks and atmosphere, but the kind of food that speaks to our palates and souls.
Yet here, the Dutch!
Since opening earlier this year, the Dutch remained a hidden gem among expatriates epicureans. Nondescriptly located on the ground floor of an office building in Jakarta SCBD, the restaurant itself is in some way a reflection of the few people in Holland I know: a little sober, but still incredibly clever. Even the name "The Dutch" suggests an elegant simplicity, making it a wonder that this is a reference to the menu or the talented young chef behind the scenes of one of the best gastro pubs this city has to offer. Perhaps a bit of both
Chief Chris Moes
Dutch cuisine is the most popular effect when updated as comfort food: warm rustic in style, and still perfect with a pint of ice cold beer. Chief Chris Moes, whose career began cooking at 16 and where he perfected his craft in the critically acclaimed restaurant De Kas in Amsterdam, has created a wonderfully modern Dutch menu where the sausage is king and presented in all its glory. Head Moes uses its menu as a sounding board to display his talent for charcuterie and smoked, rustic and traditional smoke terrines rookwurst . Moes is infinitely protective of his masterpieces serpentine and again takes the load by hand-making them in the kitchen.
The rest of the menu is a delight. At one point, I looked through the spread of vessels and plates on the dining table, and reminded Dutch still life painters Clara Peeters and Pieter Claesz, whose paintings of fruit, cheese, bread and brown the meat in a beautifully warm and diffuse; a testament to the food and drink before the age of social media.
The inventiveness of chef Moes is evident in each course; the food is both romantic and modern, down-to-earth, exciting and rewarding.
The Braised Lamb crust is a tribute to the pie humble meat with textures balanced by the crisis muted edamame and palatability cleverly enhanced with a slightly smoky bed of potato puree bright and fresh mint. A nod to Spanish cuisine was evident in the parmesan Churros served with a goat-like cloud-soft cream cheese. Goat cheese, tangy usually in the foreground, was fragrant and well matched against the sharpness of parmesan. And although erwtensoep (split pea soup) is usually served thick enough to hold a fork or spoon in the bowl, modern version of Moes is satisfactory and better suited to the climate of Jakarta, paired exceptionally with a new pretzel roll and smoked butter.
The Speculaas Toast
Perhaps a single dessert, embodies the spirit of the Dutch better. Toast Speculaas takes the humble North European shortbread and turns it into a luxurious, Enhanced spices, clafoutis custard cake style. Flanked grilled apple slices and candied orange and speckled with raisins soaked in rum, the toast is served with a generous scoop of homemade ice cream with cinnamon. Spices evoke the joys of Christmas in the northern hemisphere, where nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves reign nail. It is also a nice nod to the islands of where the spices were first cultivated.
What is a gastropub without a good beer and drinks? At The Dutch, you can expect a proper pint poured from the tap with a solid list of international beers. Guinness is particularly tasty, perhaps because it is imported directly from Ireland. The list of beers-by-the-bottle is beautifully complements the food menu with most labels in Western Europe. light beers and lagers dominate, with some darker and more hoppy beers available. The cocktails are on par with other restaurants in the group Union and refreshing creations of the talented team of mixology. A map of the heavy wines is also available for those who prefer the grape on barley, wheat or rye.
Though intimate, the dining room is almost suffocating with an elegantly relaxed and jovial atmosphere that allows guests to eat, drink and relax. The open kitchen is flanked by seats table style arrangement of a head where diners can look at what is being prepared and maybe learn a few tricks of the cooks behind the line. Live bands and special events are often planned to complete the evening for those who wish to late night shenanigans.
Inside The Dutch
Finally, if you want to satisfy your craving for smoked meats and cured at home, he is Dutch Butcher Shop where you can order and pick up either, take away or delivered to your home. Given the shortage of good pork products cured in Jakarta, it is something of a godsend for those of us who fail to walk to a local butcher shop for artisan charcuterie. Sincerely left with a rustic pork terrine and chicken, which was extremely well received at home.
The Dutch
18 Park Place Tower E, Ground Floor
FBS, Jalan Jenderal Sudirman Kav. 52-53 Jakarta 12190
Website: www.thedutchjakarta.com
Phone: 021 515 2828
Reservations recommended