Caution Indonesia - our expert epicure is moving, homelessness recently incognito archipelago to bring you the truth about the food scene the nation . No spoon is left to chance in the quest for revisions honest, balanced, long-time favorite with hottest new restaurants in town.
This month, the price of fish at Sardine.
Ah, Bali. Few places on the planet - let alone the archipelago - stir much passion and conflict within these bones. Spiritual, cultural, ancient; a trip here restores the soul. At the same time, Bali is increasingly damaged, chi-chi and sometimes a little world-weary. It is therefore a joyful quest of mine to seek and enjoy what's even magical about this mystical island. Can it be found in the highest concentration of Indonesia to see and be seen, Seminyak? We put to sea to see.
Straight off Sardine impresses. It is a simple structure, but that really makes the most of its surroundings. Peeling off Jl. Petitenget, you are suddenly in the middle of a rice field. In the rainy season, it would be surprising - the emerald green extension directly on the outdoor back room. As he was, happy little ducks roamed the fields as a nice breeze swayed by ball. White-washed and distressed wood furniture is accented by classic black and white Balinese check. It is one of the more sober comfortable spaces I've seen -. Neither too stuffy or too chic
The gracious hostess came quickly - a rare welcome touch today - advise on the menu and ask if we had questions. We were off to a promising start with a big free bread focaccia and olive oil - I always find it is the harbinger of a kitchen that cares. While deliberating we tried a few arak cocktails. They were refreshing and it is certainly novel, but arak not quite enough taste inherent to stand out in a Caipirinha or Daiquiri.
Instead, turn your attention to the wine list - and of delight. Choc-a-block with good bottle price, you will not have problems selecting the right partner for your marine meal of this selection. A pale pink Whispering Angel Rosé deliciously dry (at a reasonable Rp.800,000) was fine.
The spokesman Clandestine includes the chief of Sardine is California. This explains a lot of things on the menu. Safety reigns in this restaurant Seminyak - and why not; this is where the young and beautiful Bali herd after all. But he sacrificing taste? Here and there.
The Kingfish smoke starter salad (Rp.90,000) was good: meaty, chunky pieces, home-smoked fish were lifted by a lime-ginger dressing. Taking things in a more local direction Manis Clams ( 'sweet', Rp.100,00) were delicious: small plump abundant treasure in a turmeric curry sauce and coconut. Finally (and yes, I had two companions for meals instead of the usual - I have a few friends) a duck terrine (Rp.90,000) - selected for a break from the water - was quite delicious for us forget our guilt over eating the parents of little men running around the rice field. So far, so tasty.
It's when we noticed and enjoyed two very important things about this restaurant. First, the fish is as fresh as I have had in Indonesia. They buy whatever is on the market offers Jimbaran fish this morning and make the menu accordingly - as it should. This is essential and they will surely keep. Second, and perhaps because of this, it is very good value for money. All three dishes were just Rp.150,000 each. For a Jakarta-capita hungry fish, it is almost heaven.
So far, Sardine firing on all cylinders. Would it be too good to be true? Potentially yes, because at that time, my old enemy, salt of the police, has decided to run. Each party to the main course - hamachi, sea bass and mahi mahi - were big, fresh, generous fillets. What is good (but it would be nice to see more fish while on the bone here) and is part of the battle but won the war, Sardine needs to cook with more courage.
The mahi mahi had a nice citrus salad on the side, but the fish itself was a little bland. The bar was well cooked, and of course the bass can take a tasty accompaniment, which it had in the form of red butter and mashed potatoes. But again, it was extremely simple - no skin or anything. The hamachi was the best tasting, with the mercury flavor you get in swordfish and fresh tuna. He was accompanied by a salad of corn kernal-studded, that worked. Yet all three have suffered from a kind of inferiority complex. They knew they were good pieces of fish really inside. But they just did not reach their full potential. I fully sympathize.
They needed salt, pepper, seasoning, shaking a little. Do not mistake yourself. I, of all people, appreciate the simplicity, especially in the kitchen of fish - it is important to allow the ingredients sing. They did - and there was no error of their quality. But the food just needs to relax on the naughty bits in life that make things taste good: butter, oil, salt. Amping their flavors with some of these do not hurt them, and with their well thought and executed accompaniments, they can still claim the "healthy" tag.
To top it off, we got their "mini" dessert sampler platter, which boasted chocolate tart, mango and raspberry with a perfect pandan cake, and a little panna cotta exotic. Nothing too remarkable here; everything was perfectly fine. Ice creams and sorbets on the side were the stand-outs.
Sardine did almost everything right. It is an excellent option for a summer lunch light in a beautiful environment. A little tweak here and there and it would be close to the best option for a good value, fresh seafood throughout Indonesia.
*** ½ bigger fish to fry
s check ' please!
Power Rp.825,000
drink Rp.990,000
Service 8%
: Rp.2,156,220 for three
Sardine
[(inctaxes)Jl. Petitenget 21, Kerobokan, Bali 80361
62 (0) 811 3978 333 www.sardinebali.com